The three main types of shoe construction, from least expensive and less durable to most expensive and more durable, are Cemented, Blake stitched, and Goodyear welted.
Goodyear welted shoe and boot construction uses a strip of leather known as a welt. It is first attached to the upper portion of a shoe and then used to attach the sole. This welt is what allows shoes and boots to be recrafted by cobblers who remove the worn-out sole and attach a new one to the existing welt. A leather welt usually only needs to be replaced if it is damaged or worn-out if the shoes soles have been replaced multiple times.
Blake stitched constructed shoes do not use a welt because the sole is stitched directly to the insole and the upper. When a welt is used on a Blake stitched shoe, it is usually for decoration. The advantage of using the Blake stitched construction is it can provide a lower profile and takes less time to break-in new shoes. The disadvantage is that they can only be resoled a few times because when a new sole is attached it puts more holes into the upper leather which will eventually wear out.
Cemented construction is when an adhesive is used to attach the sole to the shoe upper. It is often found in lower quality men’s shoes because they can be manufactured more quickly and cheaply. Most cemented shoes cannot be resoled so they must be thrown out when the sole wears out. An advantage is they are often the most comfortable type when new and do not need as much break-in time.
For a more detailed description of different stich methods and construction types, please view this video from our “Sole Talk Sunday” series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUMGNq-hOW0
This service includes:
- New welt (hand-stitched for Goodyear welted or glued-on for Blake stitched)
- Can only be ordered with a full resole service (replace welt is not a stand-alone service)
- 1-year warranty on our work (materials may have separate manufacturer warranties).
- 3-5 weeks turnaround time upon receiving your shoes.
- Customer is responsible for the cost of shipping their shoes to our store. Shipping instructions will be provided on your order confirmation email.
- Return shipping options and costs will be shown at checkout.
- Service prices may increase after we receive your shoes and complete an in-person inspection.
Unfortunately, we cannot always determine the condition of your shoes until we have them in our possession. Sometimes shoes have more damage than normal wear and tear and thus require a more involved and expensive repair. If we determine more work is needed at an additional charge, we will contact you to discuss before any work is performed.